ABOUT - MANUFACTURING METHOD

pattern

pattern

In 2013, we switched from creating patterns in Japan to having them made by a local Italian pattern maker, and have continued to develop our products together with that same pattern maker ever since.

The patterns are created based on the characteristics of each part of leather and the size of each piece of leather, taking into account how to make the most of them.

It is common to reduce the amount of leather used by increasing the amount of leather stripped off and taking more parts from one piece, but since the product is mainly dyed, this can sometimes be a disadvantage, so we are researching patterns that reduce the amount of leather stripped off as much as possible while still maintaining the range of motion and silhouette.

pattern

Manufacturing method

All of the clothing, leather accessories, and shoes are made by the same craftsmen in the same workshops and by the same artisans for the past 15 years, since the brand was first established.

Production Management

Production Management

A craftsman with experience managing production for a number of brands.

They are responsible for detailed production management of leather wear, woven wear, and leather accessories, and even handle the cutting of fabrics.

The fabric is also hand-cut in layers of one or a few pieces rather than being laser-cut in bulk according to size.

Since the brand's inception, we have worked together with designers on everything from sample development to mass production.

He responds to requests from designers and also offers suggestions from different angles, making him an indispensable member of the team in the evolution of the brand.

The craftsmen who are closest to the designer.

Leather cutting

Leather cutting

Since the brand's inception, each piece has been cut by the skilled cutters, the older brother and sister.

Taking into consideration the differences between different parts of the leather, we decide which parts of each material to use for each part and then cut them. By using a pattern that minimizes peeling, we separate the individual parts and use a cutting method that minimizes individual variations due to the grain and dyeing.

Sewing

Sewing

The leather and fabric are sewn in an Italian workshop by several skilled craftsmen with over 30 years of experience.

Rather than being sewn on a production line, each garment is cut to specific specifications and sewn individually.

Although it takes time, it allows us to respond to different order specifications from customers.

Shoe Sewing

Shoe Sewing

This workshop has been producing products using the Goodyear method by hand since before advanced equipment was available.

The current president continues to make shoes, cherishing the spirit passed down from his grandparents.

Although not all work is done by hand these days, we still use and maintain Goodyear sewing machines that are over 50 years old.

Leather goods

Leather goods

Made by a single craftsman with over 30 years of experience.

All of Incarnation's leather accessories, from bags and gloves to wallets and belts, are made by him.

He handles all processes himself, from creating the pattern to sewing and finishing.

Product dyeing and finishing

After sewing, the products are inspected and then separated into their respective colors and sent for dyeing.

The water temperature and weather change with the seasons, and the concentration of the dye changes depending on the amount of dye put into the dye drum, so the concentration is decided through discussion between the craftsman and the designer.

The products are spun around a drum with the dye and then dyed, then the water is drained off in the tannery and the products are then taken wet back to the lab for the next process.

The drying schedule varies depending on the season, but as the product shrinks during the drying process, we measure it and make adjustments to keep it within the specified size.

At this time, an inspection tag is attached, the product is corrected while checking the store or individual name and various specifications, and a person in charge checks and signs the tag. After about four days to a week, the product is completely dry, and then it goes through three to four stages of manual finishing before it is completed.

Each person in charge of finishing process also checks and signs the document.

Before shipping, the products are inspected again by two people before being shipped to each country.